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Turkey

After spending 10 glorious days in Barcelona & Costa Brava, I was off to Istanbul to meet Mariana. We opted for an Airbnb in Kadıköy, located on the Asian side of Istanbul, as it came highly recommended in the backpacker community. I left Barcelona in the morning and reached Istanbul in the late afternoon. Mariana's flight was arriving around the same time so we figured we'd meet in the airport by baggage claim and wait for our Airbnb host, Chris, to pick us up.

 

Before arriving in Istanbul, Mariana, Chris and I planned our arrival in a group chat. Chris offered to pick us up from Ataturk airport for a small fee and we instantly accepted. The alternative was an overly convoluted route, involving changing 2-3 buses and walking a couple blocks before reaching his apartment. As soon as I arrived in Turkey, I turned on my phone and got a flood of messages from Mariana. Turns out she was actually landing at the other airport in Istanbul, on the opposite side of the city. Well, shoot. I got my visa approved (you need a separate one for Turkey), collected my big backpack, and headed to the airport lobby to find Chris. After a couple laps of wandering up and down the lobby, I finally found him. While he led me to his car, we discussed the semi-humorous situation at hand; less than an hour in Turkey and we'd already lost Mariana. She messaged before she left the airport that she was taking public transit to Chris's. She could only message when she had internet so we didn't really have a way to connect with her while she was on the way. I just hoped it wasn't as complicated as it seemed. We had about an hour drive (due to traffic of course) from the airport to his place. But he blasted Turkish music, bought us a street side treat (named simit: essentially an extra crunchy bagel) and I passed time by getting lost in a sea of colorful billboards and getting to know Chris.

 

When we got to Chris's apartment, I met his fiancé and toured his place. After I got settled in, his fiancé made me a cup of (strong) Turkish coffee. I was stressed about Mariana getting to his place, so they distracted me by predicting my future by analyzing the coffee grind remains in my cup. It only partially distracted me so I kept asking Chris to check if Mariana was downstairs. Finally after another half an hour, Chris came back upstairs, declaring "Guess who I found!". In comes Mariana, waltzing in with her massive backpack and a huge smile on her face. Relief washed over me and I instantly jumped up and squeezed her tight. Turns out Mariana had to switch between buses from the airport and got a little lost on the way. Luckily some friendly locals on the bus correctly directed her to Chris's. She wasn't even waiting long before Chris happened to come out. Mariana recounted her tale to us while Chris supplied us with an amazing Turkish dinner.

 

DAY 1: PART OF A SET

TRAVEL TIPS: ISTANBUL

DAY 2-3: TULIP CITY

We had 3 more days in Istanbul before leaving for Vienna, Austria. The next morning we decided to venture to the European side of Istanbul since we were meeting with Mustafah (friend of a friend of a friend) for dinner in Taksim Square. For those unfamiliar with Istanbul's layout, the Bosphorus Strait divides the city into two: the Asian side and the European side. It is the only city in the world that straddles 2 continents. Chris recommended taking a ferry from Kadıköy (Asian side) to Karaköy (European side). The terminal ferry was about 15 minute bus ride from Chris's, but we decided to walk and explore the neighborhood. It ended up taking us 2 hours to get to the ferry terminal, what with all the wandering, getting lost and finding a delicious lunch spot. But soon after, we were finally aboard the packed ferry watching Kadıköy disappear behind the sparkling water.

Once we disembarked onto the European side, we cabbed it Taksim Square. It was the typical tourist laden street full of commercialized shops, fast-food restaurants and only a hint of authentic Turkish culture. Soon after, we met up with Mustafah (who was a friend of someone I met in Barcelona). He was fantastic and took us around Taksim, Galata Tower and took us to dinner at his favorite spot (sincerely incredible food). We had initial impressions of Istanbul but wanted an insider's opinion, so we picked Mustafah's brain clean. While roaming the city, I realized Istanbul was different than I imagined. The skyline looked like a mismatched puzzle pieces forced together. Ancient mosques and beautiful Turkish architecture commanded the skyline, yet modern high rises and tall cranes perched above, contaminating the scene. The city seemed diluted; westernization was unfortunately infectious. 

 

The next day Mariana wasn't feeling well so we had lunch near Chris's place (again, delicious food...if you're not noticing a trend here). We decided to spend the rest of the afternoon planning for Vienna while (I guiltily admit) watching Gilmore Girls on Netflix. When Chris came home from work, he was flabbergasted and labeled us "the laziest backpackers he's ever met". This did not sit with us well so we instantly accepted his offer to take us to Göztepe Park nearby and for a walk around his neighborhood.  Lucky for us, our visit to Istanbul in early April was  purely serendipitous; the city was covered in colorful blooming tulips at every turn. It gave the city a radiant glow and a friendly welcome.

DAY 4: SUPER COOL ISTANBUL

We had one more day in Istanbul and agreed to pack everything in. We woke up early, took the minibüs (a yellow mini-bus) from Chris's place to the ferry and spent the day running between sites on the European side of Istanbul. 

 

We decided to go to the Sultanahmet district first, an area deeply rooted in Istanbul's rich history. Our first stop was one of the most prominent sites in Sultanahmet: the Blue Mosque (or Sultan Ahmed Mosque). There was a separate entrance line for tourists and we waited in a lengthy line for 45 minutes before stepping inside. Before entering, we stopped at a booth and received scarves and sarongs to cover our heads, shoulders and knees in order to respect Islamic customs. 

DAY 1
DAY 2
DAY 4
TRAVEL TIPS

Once we were properly outfitted, we proceeded inside. Similar to St. Mark's Cathedral in Venice, the interior of the Blue Mosque was showered in decadent golden hues. From top to bottom, the walls and ceiling were covered in meticulous artistic detail. We quietly walked through the mosque and observed the atmosphere. In the center, men were kneeling on the bright red carpet, praying.  Upon exiting, there was a gentleman standing outside an office offering to answer any questions we had about the mosque or Islam. I quickly obliged because, well, color me curious. 

 

I mainly wanted to understand women's role in Islam. In the couple of days we spent in Istanbul, I observed how women conducted themselves. They seemed more conservative and quieter than their counterparts in other cities and rarely ever locked eyes with anyone. Mariana and I would often stumble into cafes or restaurants and enter only to find out that there were only male customers. I was definitely curious to learn more about it. Mariana and I sat on a couch and he handed us a copy of the Quran and some other supplemental material. I thanked him and then proceeded to ask questions like "where are the women praying in the mosque?" (in the back) and "why do some women chose to wear a hijab and others don't?" (some wish to honor Allah's literal word and solely reserve their beauty for their husbands). The answers were straightforward enough. He explained that the Quran regarded women to be an equal mate to a man in every way. Any inequalities perceived may have come through cultural customs, not religious. Many ancient cultures did not regard women as equals and those notions may have passed through the generations.  "But are those notions still standing strong today?" I asked. He smiled and again explained that the Quran regards women as equals. Alright, so maybe this was a more of a cultural conversation than a religious one. In any case, I was glad I had the opportunity to speak with him, as he offered explanations that I never realized before. We thanked him again and departed.

 

 After leaving the mosque, we walked across the street to Hagia Sophia, a former cathedral turned into a mosque and finally into a museum. Although after looking at the length of the line, we decided to forgo the museum and head to the Grand Bazaar. Because what girl doesn't love to shop.

The Grand Bazaar is the ultimate shopper's dream. We entered through a medieval-esque entrance not knowing what to expect. And bam. Store after store, alley after alley, this bazaar is better described as a labyrinth of Istanbul's finest treasures... but on steroids. You could literally find anything you wanted there. Tea and snacks? Got it. Real diamond jewelry? Of course. Turkish furniture complete with a matching side table? Absolutely. Thousands of tourists hungrily searching for the perfect keepsake? You betcha.  

 

After browsing through hundreds of stores and convincing each other that we desperately needed that exotic bracelet with matching earrings and rings, we had our bazaar fix for the day and headed out. Apart from having to evade some sweet talking, but seedy proprietors, we had a wonderful time admiring the Turkish aesthetic and lavish treats. 

 

It was approaching evening time, so Mariana and I grabbed dinner and headed back to Chris's. The next day, we had an early morning departure for Vienna, Austria. Chris helped us again by supplying the best route to the airport (minibüs to city bus to train to airport) and we were on our way. During our long commute, I was fixated on the sprawling city in front of us. As much as I enjoyed the city, it seemed to exist in a dichotomous state, both feet in separate worlds. High rises peaked into the sky and billboards populated the edges of the highways, signifying the modernization of business and economy. But at the same time, the culture seemed to be reverting to a more conservative time. Prior to visiting, many friends told me Istanbul was a party city, yet barely anyone we met drank. It was definitely a fascinating place to visit but I was eager to keep moving to our next destination--Vienna, Austria

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